It was 2:30 am on a crisp October morning when we got picked up by our guide in Cusco to start the Salkantay Trek. We were seriously worried about starting so early - we don't do well when we're sleep deprived (we get properly, physically ill, not to mention the moaning) and we were scared we wouldn't enjoy the experience as we'd be exhausted. When we booked the tour we had no idea we were going to start so early and only found out the night before when we went to a pre-trek briefing at the orgnising company...
We only managed to catch a couple of hours of sleep so we immediately drifted off when we got into the car. It wasn't the best of snoozes - we were on a 4-hour drive across the mountain on what felt like some of the worst roads we've ever been on. Still, it helped us feel at least a bit more adequate.
We arrived at Soraypampa - the base camp for starting on to the Salkantay trek - around 6 am. Normally a ridiculously early start and something that would leave us cranky at least until noon. This is where this all changed! The sight was so breathtaking it didn't leave any room for wondering if it's really worth it.
At 3 900 metres above sea level, it is literally breathtaking! But that's not what we mean. From the Soraypampa camp you can catch a look at the Salkantay peak. It towers over the valley and even at a distance looks formidable. It's super high as well so it's constantly covered in snow adding to its humbling look that makes you realise how small and fragile your feeble human body is. It's better than any coffee we've ever had.
After a quick breakfast we started onto the trail leading to the peak. It's a relatively gentle climb at first but if you haven't adjusted to the altitude (like us) even that is going to be a challenge. The good thing is there are plenty of stops along the way where the guides explain what living in the mountain is like. And provide coca leaves to help with adjustment with somewhat of a regret that chewing the leaves isn't the same as consuming the processed product :D
The biggest challenge on the ascent is the so called Seven Snakes. A part of the trek that is so steep it has to climb on a curve. Which is still incredibly steep. This is the reason the trek is considered so physically challenging and it certainly was no joke to do. Most people didn't seem to struggle and it was just us and this very old lady that had to stop every few steps to catch our breath. So once again - we recommend you take enough time in Cusco to adjust to the altitude.
Following the Seven Snakes the path opens up and flattens a bit. It is at an even higher altitude though so it doesn't get any easier to walk. It's incredible to witness how the guides, mostly native quechua (the people of the Inca empire), have absolutely no trouble breathing there!
And then... we got to Salkantay Pass at the foot of the peak. It's 4 600 metres above sea level, it was cold, there was some snow and frost around, there were clouds, some of which were below us. And it was magnificent!
At this distance the peak was even more impressive and left us speechless at how beautiful nature can be, even in its harshest form. We felt overwhelmed with gratitude that we were able to be in this place, that we managed to do the climb, that there is so much more to experience in the world than we had imagined until that point. We tried to take some pictures but nothing can capture what we saw and experienced. We couldn't even fit the entire peak into one frame! It is then we felt what countless mountain goers must feel when they go trekking. You need to be there to fully appreciate the beauty we saw, so if you ever get the chance of doing a challenging mountain trek don't hesitate. It will be worth it!
We admired the view for a few minutes and then had a small tea (and some local alcohol) ceremony led by our guides. Then with our hands and feet properly frozen we started our descent towards our camp for the night.
We expected the rest of the trek on this day to be largely uneventful. As the altitude decreased and temperatures rose the path became a bit muddy so we had to watch our feet a lot. At first there wasn't much vegetation but the terrain started to change and we gradually started seeing some bushes. We had a much needed lunch which felt amazing. First because it was indoors and we were able to warm up a bit and second because we had been awake for far too many hours for only 2 meals so far.
After lunch we continued on a descending path to reach our camp at some meager 1 900 meters above sea level. And then we got surprised and awed again by the beauty of the Andes. We gradually entered a jungle and as we came to realise this is another thing we absolutely loved. The steep slopes were covered in lush vegetation, we started seeing flowers and small birds and got some amazing views of the mountain.
We continued walking for a few more hours until we reached the site where we would spend the night. It was these super cute huts nestled between a few slopes. It looked so cozy and welcoming it gave us another adrenaline rush.
After a quick shower (we had to pay for that and not everyone got hot water, but it was still amazing) and dinner our entire group was beat and went to bed around 8:30 pm. We stayed around for a bit and admired yet another incredible view - the milky way so clearly visible due to the lack of light (and other) pollution.
And then - alone, under the stars, in the middle of the jungle, with our hearts full of love for our newly discovered passion, the mountain (and for each other, of course) - we got engaged! An incredibly romantic setting which shot Peru straight to the top of our favourite destinations list :)